Land of the Graves

We left the area of Lanzou and headed northward through the "Hexi" corridor. We had planned to take the so called scenic route from our last destination, but it was pretty evident after the first 10km of trucks, more trucks, broken road surface, traffic etc..that Hell "lets take the other road". We now had the choice of 2 other routes(one surely was more scenic as it was closer to the mountains). The other route would take us through the famed "Hexi corridor" and on. He advised of a swedish guy we had met previously we decided on the route straight north out of Lanzou. Well...........there was one particularly nice area that we camped in and our first snow storm. Awoke in the mornign to spectacular mountain views off in the distance and visitations by many sheepherders. From there we climbed up over a Pass and then...the landof desolation. Initially it wasnt to bad but we left the mountains behind and the area became drier and drier. Particulary what was evident were the numerous Muslin grave sites everywhere. Stark landscape with rock piles and sticks marking graves. We have experienced the horrendous wind and sand storms that whip up. We were riding one day into a dark brown dreary sky. In fact we didnt see any kind of horizon that whole day. We continued on and the "feeling" in the air was not pleasant. After experiencing so much smog in China we are often deluded into thinking it was yet another smog bank from some other city. Our common sense somehow kicked in and we realized that "maybe" this wasnt just smog. So after we had downed a beer at the lcoal mercantil store we decided to pitch the tent behind a thousand year old mud wall(maybe two thousand year old). We were not a moment to soon before the trees were swaying and bending and the wind just howled. It felt like doomsday out there. There was very little visibialty and at one point I went for a stroll looking for a lost windblown item. I was just wandering around the graves looking out into nothingness and wondering "why would anyone live here?" Next morning the sun was shining and we were alive! The question arose about continuing on with the trip or taking a break. We rode out into a horrendous headwind riding a whoping great 30km before we decided to bag it and get a room to recoup and regroup. I had decided that the guy who recommended riding this area must have been on crack(no offense) I was under duress. We decide there was no point in riding this section and was at least going to bus it to Zanghe or points further north. Even though we were on a secondary road and there was a perfectly good freeway nearly next to us the majority of traffic used the secondary roads(toll fees to high?? I dunno) and the buses and trucks and cars all drive peddle to the metal and communicate soley with a blaring horn. I was continually lamenting " the road not taken....the road not taken". Sal