Almost Home But Not Quite

Our last update was from sunny windy Wenatchee..we left there a week ago and entered the "rain zone" once again.  Going up over Stevens Pass was cold windy rainy all and more.  We met a an organized bike tour heading the other direction on their light road bikes.  I know that when they saw us heading uphill into  a headwind with our loaded bikes they felt a little lighter.    Bainbridge Island was spectacularly sunny and beautiful.  We had a lovely visit with a young couple, Erin and Benson plus their new 3month old son River.  We had met on a previous GCanyon trip minus the baby!  We even got to go for an evening cruise on Puget sound straight across from Seattle on Bensons new live aboard boat..sweeeeeeet.   Next stop was more friends, alittle older, Alan and Barbara Banks along with Al's 92yr old mother Gratia.  It was a delightful visit with great food good conversations and games of hearts in the evenings.  No  I wont brag about winning, I think it was just the wine winning.  Gratia is a gem and pretty much her memory, hearing and sense of humor is better than mine.   Of course our ride leaving Silverdale was yet another miserable torrential downpour(where does all the rain come from?)  and to cap it all off Stan got a record number of flat tires along a very busy hwy ..we pretty much limped into Tacoma across the narrows bridge and back to our surrogate familiy, Jim and Gretchen, where we are now.    We are pretty well done with the bikes..well at least I am.  maybe Stan also but he wil never admit it. It is TIME to get home weve been gone to long..."the fish are calling"

Down & over to Wenatchee

After a warm and sunny day in Sandpoint the weather turn a turn for the wet.  We thought about leaving on June 5 but the rain was dumping and the wind was howling so we elected to wait it out a day as the 6h was supposed to be better weather.  We enjoyed the local library for email and a brew pub downtown for Happy Hour at 3pm for $3 pints! 

Woke up and the 6th to more rain, it had rained hard most all night, and the wind seemed to have picked up about 15 mph and temps in the high 40's.  Obviously we were not going anywhere and didn't want to spend the day in the tent so we broke down and got a motel room where we were able to dry everything out, take a shower and enjoy TV for a change.  Next morning the 7th dawned with blue skies and calm winds and we headed out to enjoy Northern Idaho and spent the night camped in a wet field just off the highway about 75km from Sanpoint on Hwy 20.  Quiet spot and showers during the night, next morning was threatening rain so hurridly ate and packed and hit the road.  We missed the rain all day despite a big black cloud the NE of us.  The night of the 8th found us at "Crystal Falls" where we were able to find a small spot just away from the scenic overlook.  Beautiful night with starts until about 3 and then next thing we knew at 5 was rain.  Slept till about 7 and packed in the rain / wind and headed off again towards Colville, WA.

Pulled into Colville about an hour later and had breakfast in the local bar - seems to be the only breakfast spot in town!  The rain had pretty much quit by the time we finished so we headed off south thru beautiful woods and meadows all day long.  Very green here and not sure if it's typical or just because we have hit such a wet spell.  Winds picked up in the afternoon and we ended up camping just off  "Roosevelt Lake" beyond Rice, WA.  It is a long lake backed up behind Grand Coulee Dam miles downriver.  Beautiful sunset on our camp overlooking the lake.

Next day, the 10th, we made it to Ft. Spokane and we were down in the dry Ponderosa forests and sagebrush, a very welcome change.  Camped at Ft. Spokane, splurged and spent $10 for quiet spot along the river and a picnic table!  It's been great to finally have some dry, warm weather and enjoy the sunshine.  Actually it got much warmer, bordering on hot, as the next day we baked on the ride to Electric City, WA and Grand Coulee Dame.  Didn't stop at the dam but did find a nice spot just off the highway, next to a local park that closed down at 10pm.  No camping inside the park but since we were literally about 30' away and sheltered we had a nice spot on Banks Lake with use of a table and bathroom.

Leaving Electric City on the 12th we traveled south thru a beautiful canyon on Hwy 155 to Coulee City and then down Hwy 17 to Soap, WA stopping just before town to camp where we had a year before when borrowed Marlin & Christine's classic RV on a road bike tour of WA/OR.  Again we had horrendous wind all night except this time no rain.  We should have just collapsed the tent and used the sagebrush for a windbreak in our bags as we didn't gt much sleep.

Wind was still howling at 7 when we finally decided to get up, pack and hit the road hoping to find a diner along the way for breakfast.  Finally stopped in Quincy for breakfast and a short break from the wind.  Knowing we wanted to get to Wenatchee and house for the night we pushed on and battled crosswinds headwinds for the next 40 miles or so finallly getting to Marlin & Christines about 5pm.  Unfortunately they were/are in Colorado but we have enjoyed the FULL use of their home.  It has been great to spend a few days resting up out of the wind enjoying the town of Wenatchee.  There is a lot going on in the small town but a thriving downtown business section, a really good bike shop:  Full Circle Bicycles (changed out the rear cassette, front sprokets, chain and rear detrailer cogs on our bikes yesterday - just a bit worn after 13,000km) and every Friday during the summer a free concert in the park downtown.  Last nights concert was really good with "Eddyville" and "Gideon's Daughter", first night in quiet awhile that there wasn't any wind.

Tomorrow we leave for Puget Sound via either Highway 2, probably, or south and skirt Mt. Rainer on Hwy 410.  It''s been good riding on nice roads here in WA/ID but we are also looking forward to putting the bikes away for a few days once we get home to AK, still three weeks away.

Pointhill to Sandpoint Idaho

Well here we are in great old USA..in fact its been grand this part of northern Idaho had been a pleasant surprise.  Its very inexpensive, folks are friendly and the country quite beautiful.  We even looked at real estate because it was so inexpensive compared to our other travels.

We crossed the border from Creston into Porthill Idaho..basically a Mercantile store selling everything.  It was so good to cross into USA if not because life was somewhat simpler?.  The mercantile store was a classic selling everything and of course cheap beer and free coffee.  We were able to camp right down by the kootenai river near the store within breathing distance of the border crossing at a very nice public picnic/camping site!!!  We were later visiting by the border patrol, more out of curiosity than wrong doing.  He was a very nice young man although im sure our skin  was the right colour!!  It was a public free area so we were not breaking any rules although it did see quite odd to me that we were allowed to camp so close to "The Border".  We celebrated our return to USA by consuming a 6 pack of PBR (pabst blue ribbon) and the other classic Milwauke ice!!

Next day we headed out into blustery headwinds and rain arriving into Bonners Ferry.  A delightful place at the crossroads of  2rivers and the antique car show was going on when we arrived.  Due to increasingly crappy weather, as in thunderstorms followed by more thunderstorms we ended up in the Kootenai brewing company..and OMG..the special was double cheesburgers with a side for 5 dollars!!  ..sorry to my vegetarian readers but this was one bad boy burger and I had to give half to Stan the man Garbueratour man!   Not to mention the beer was exquisite.  The rain came  down and down some more the bridge was alsmost floating.

After a lovely storm free eve next to the river we headed towards sandpoint into more headwinds and rolling terrain.  Sally proclaimed she needed a rest day because very ditch was staring to look invinting.  We pulled into Sandpont fairground next to which was a campsite,  The camphost said well we usually charge 25 bucks a night (standard camping fee!!!) but seeing you dont use any power how about 10 bucks...sweet done deal stayed 2 nights.  We were  the only ones there today and we get our very own picnic table and  freehot showers!!!  Its the small things in life.

So today happy as a clam after a  rest day a breakfast of backy and eggs at our campsite a tour through town another brew pub visitation and home to cook dinner.  So thanks again for everyone that does occassionly think of us ..we are blessed and we are anxious also to get home..Yoda misses us!!

NW Tour

Sorry for the long delay but we've been busy riding, and lately enjoying American beers!!!

We left Tacoma about 3 weeks ago I think and rode up the Hood Canal to Port Angeles visiting friends along the way and then onto Vancouver Island where we spent a week -10 day visiting more friends and enjoying wonderful sunshine and company.  Naturally the day we left it was raining as we left Doug & Evelyns for the ferry.  By the time we got to the ferry terminal on the mainland it was pouring down all the way into Vancouver where it finally let up.  Spend a nice evening in Vancouver and headed out to cross BC via the Crows Nest Highway.  Seems like we forgot that the mtns run north-south and we were riding west to east so again we had lots of passes to cross.  Finally got across all but the last one and found out we could ride north from Nelson for 30km and take a ferry across the lake and then ride south along the lake to Creston an bypass the biggest pass of all.  No real decision to make there!!  So we hit Creston and headed south to the good ol' USA and are know in Sandpoint, ID.

Beautiful spot and real estate prices are a lot less than what we expected to see but as nice as the area is it's not probably the place for us:  a bit too tame!  Seems like we have hit the area in the peak of their rainy season and as we plan to head out tomorrow for WA there is another big rain storm predicted for tonight and tomorrow.

Right now we'll head west on Hwy 2 then a quick loop to the north before going back south to 2 again then to 25 before heading towards Wenatchee and finally Tacoma near the end of the month.  After BC it's good to be back where prices for everything are much cheaper.  We have started to try to cut down the mileage per day to enjoy the riding and scenery a bit more and make it a more relaxing end of the journes.

Sally picked my up a really good book about China and what it is "really going thru" these days - not all the roses that one often hears in the mainstream media.  "Out of Mao's Shadow" is a very realistic book and the stories that are told, while we don't have first hand knowledge of the stories, we did experience the general tone of the book on our trip.  Not a pleasant experience for the bulk of the Chinese people who don't have the means or the connections or the will (fortunately) to trod on their fellow citizens.

We are so blessed to live in the country we do, even including Canada.  As much as we'd like to change some things there is no where else we'd prefer to be.  Clean air, clean water and mostly open government!!

Swimming in Sandpoint

Today finds us drying out in the library at Sandpoint and a second rest day.  The weather is nothing short of atrocious!!   Another big storm front moved in last night and high winds(would have been headwinds) and  cold rain were enough deterents to just hang out.  Library now, brewpub later.  We thought the weather was bad in Bonners ferry where the bridge looked like it was going to float away but its even worse here today.  Not much you can do on two wheels except to go with the flow..Ha!!

So think warm thoughts and hopefully we shall see the sun again..

Oh Canada

getting ready to leave the beautiful province of British Columbia, heading for Idaho presently in Creston, B.C.   We had a lovely if not challenging trip across the Crowsnest hwy #3..a few to many summits to summit and detoured via Nelson across Kootenay lake and down to Creston.  As beautiful as Nelson is we probably couldnt afford to live there very expensive and somewhat exclusive.  The ride along the east side of Kootenay lake was peaceful, and secluded.  

Weve really enjoyed B.C although have found it to be a little expensive and more so in the prime destinations..the price of beauty.  We met a number of bikers in Hope B.C and they either died on the passes or a bear ate them as we havent seen any since.  We also met a group of "hippies"!! real live hippies walking to Ottowa with  kids and dogs in tow.  I asked them what were they going to say.  Something like " we want to be free!!"  and then they were gong to dance on the lawn.  I must be getting old because the message seemed kind of vague for me.

Anyhow we are well although tired and always hungry.  Looking at adjusting our route a little to have more R @R on the coast before we fly home july8.  We will keep you updated as long as the freindly librairies  are available..

USA bound with one very large box of RED ROSE tea!!

love Sal

Back on the Road

After spending some wonderful time with friends in Seattle and Tacoma we are back on the road again.  We left Tacoma on Wednesday for Quilcene, on the Hood Canal.  Taking the long way around we arrived at John & Shelly's after 158 km.  We spent a nice evening visiting with them, last visit was 3 years ago when we rode our bikes from Tacoma to Anchorage.

Next day was a hilly 85km to Sequim to see Scott Erikson, a friend and also a member of the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group.  He has a great spot just north and west of Sequim near the ocean.  Early yesterday, Friday, morning he took us to Port Angeles and we took the ferry to Victoria, BC.  120 km later we were at Doug & Evelyn's in Nanaimo - a much hiller ride (at least the first 50km) than I remembered.

We'll spend the next week or so here on Vancouver Island visiting friends before we leave for the mainland.  Plan right now is to ride east in Canda along the US border and drop down into western Idaho, thru McCall and then work our way back to Tacoma.  All in all a 2000 mile wind-down from Asia.

It is sooo refreshing to be able to ride and enjoy the clean air, clean water, blue skies, the absence of honking horns and often just enjoy the quiet. We are happy with our decision to return home when we did and are looking forward to the late summer/fall of 2013 when we hope to ride Central Asia.  Short trip and small geographical area.

Sally's rack repair!

Stan's rack repair!

One of the last hills on the trip with beautiful  snow capped mountains behind us.

Dust storm on the 18 hr bus ride thru the Hexi Corridor on the way to Urumqi.

Desolate place to live in the wind in the Hexi Corridor.

Desert and peaks in the "Corridor:.

And then every once in awhile the wind would quite, they sky would clear and the stark beauty of the Hexi Corridor became visible.

Small park on a hill in downtown Urumqi.

Urumqi airport.

More of the continual road construction.  Takes all your concentration to stay upright so not much sightseeing going on!

Chicken coup!

Split wheel rim.  Fortunately it lasted for a few more hundred kilometers.

When the wind doesn't blow it's possible to get a great campsite in the open!

Greenhouse and more plastic.  Veggies, mushrooms, flowers all grown in these structures.  Many are 200-300 ft. long.

Old cemetary up on the hillside in Ganzu province.

Fresh snow on the mountains.  We elected to ride out in the valley and not get too close to the snow and just ended up in more road construction.  Maybe we should have opted for the other road....!

Bus stop in backyard of the hotel

Actually at steam heat in the room so we're trying to warm our hands!

Terraced hillsides ready for planting and plastic!

Cool ride up high on my birthday.  Chinese sign language for "61".

Sally giving a local lady at a campsite some lotion on her hands.  Soon many of the village ladies came by!!

Fashion Queen trying to stay warm!

Bicycle recycling

Plastic, plastic, plastic!!  While this helps the crops, potatoes here, get started it doesn't take long for the wind to rip it off the ground.   Thousands of acres of plastic that eventually is blown all over the country.  We saw shreds of plastic for weeks on trees, powerlines,  everywhere!!

Bicycle recycling!

Not everyone in China enjoys the big luxury cars or trucks  for transport.

We rode for three days in Ganzu and none of the farmers had a mechanized equipment!

Group of Chinese tourers we met - they had motorcycle sag support!

View down the valley after a nice gradual one hour climb!

Happy to be on top of the climb, note hole in the rock wall behind Sally!

Down the other side of the pass!

Terraced hillside and farming on any piece of land that may remotely grown anything!

And then there are the big open valley's.

Nice quiet seclued campsite in a local cemetary

Campsite down by the river!!

Nice quiet campsite overlooking a lake.

Mile signs: had to match the character to the character on our maps that were in both Chinese & English

Note the high water quality in the construction zone!

Group of Chinese bike tourers:  motorcycles support vehicles.  Why didn't we think of that!

Sally going thru a remote village on a big "downhill run" in Northern Sichuan.

FINALLY: back home in North America. After the tribulations of the airport experience in Urumqi we expected things to go smoothly in Beijing, well we hoped they would anyway. I had discovered the day before we left the hotel in Urumqi when I tried to check-in online that we were booked each for two flights from Urumqi to Bejing and one flight from Seattle to Vancouver, BC. No flights from Beijing to Seattle however. After more emails between Jack & myself he confirmed with Expedia and Delta that we were going to Seattle from Beijing and NOT to Vancouver at all. Confirmation code is correct. However Delta in Beijing didn't have that information handy. Fortunately I did have a printout of the confirmation showing the flights and they eventually found them. Then their system wouldn't recognize Sally's valid passport. Then they couldn't figure out how many bags we could check or the weight limit: can economy class really be so difficult!! Finally, after an hour at the counter, they were complete and we had our boarding passes. From there on everything was like it should be: straightforward with no problems. Until we landed. Somehow we made up an hour on the 11.5 hr flight and landed at 4:30am. Since immigration doesn't open till 5:30am we got to sit on the airplane at the gate for an hour. At least that gave the baggage people time to get the bags to baggage claim before we got there!! So you claim you bags, go thru customs, put bags back on another conveyor and pick them up at the main baggage claim in the main terminal. Only they forgot to send the bike boxes to the main terminal baggage claim so we ended up waiting another 30 minutes for the bikes. However, trusty Marlin was there to pick us up. We spent yesterday doing laundry and taking it easy and more of that today. Tomorrow we'll go down to Tacoma and see college rowing buddies for a few days, put the bikes back together and hit the road again. We have 6-8 weeks before getting to Anchorage so will ride Vancouver Island visiting more friends and then ride somewhere in the greater Pacific Northwest before heading home to Alaska. As usual it's good to be home where things are familiar, the air and water is clean, no trash (minimal at best), a healthy change in diet, beer with flavor, ice-cream, butter and all the simple joys of life that we take so much for granted. It was a wonderful trip; as I said earlier not necessarily life changing. But as a friend wrote me it was "life enhancing"! We are looking forward to the next ride, we hope that to be Central Asia in the late summer/fall of 2013. We've heard so much so positive about the area from Marlin & Christine and others that we want to get there ASAP before there are too many changes. The world, and the developing countries in particular, are changing so fast in their rush to "catchup" that a lot of the "charm" of these areas is being lost to rapid development and the inevitable changes that result from "oil revenues" or foreign influences. I don't deny the people their opportunity to improve their lives and standard of living but I don't like to see that development at the expense of the environment and their individual freedoms from oppressive regimes. China and Vietnam in particular where exciting places to visit and the local peoples we met were wonderful but the oppression and lack of basic freedoms that we take for granted in our Bill of Rights were a sobering reminder that most of the world is not as fortunate as we are. We are grateful to live where we do and to enjoy our freedoms, despite all the problems we have with our political systems in the west. Enjoy your privileges and get out and see the world - by bicycle if all possible! Stan

Airport Woes!

So here we are in Bejing awaiting the plane to seattle....and nothing is ever simple. We left our hotel at noon yesterday and the only day in sometime it happened to be raining, cold and windy. Undettered we headed towards the airport stopping off at the "Giant" bicycle store to pick up 2 boxes. Stan was able to bend them in half and tie them onto his rear carrier. The ride the rest of the way was fortuantely uneventful except for one man that Stan almost took out with his wide load. At the airport we spent a few horus packaging up the bikes and gear. Much to our dismay Stan said "where are the bike boxes?" The empty boxes that were with all of our stuff and ourselves had just vaporized..gone!! I had what they call a kinipshin? or something like that and of course "no one" speaks English. We had suspected the house cleaning staff had whisked them away. After much wailing , arm flapping, workers trying to get us to buy the small boxes that they had we were able to flag down someone that spoke english. A young man from Singapore and his chinese friend were able to help figure out where they were. They were found in the room across from us, hidden in the back even though I had gone in there and asked for the boxes. Airport Check in at Urumqi, another painful episode. The guy at the counter was clueless about bikes, didn't speak English etc. Annoyingly there are the ones that do speak English and instead of taking over and solving dilemmas they dont really seem to do anything. He wanted us to have our boxes repackaged??? We are not sure why but basically refused. Stan had only spent he past 1-2hrs packaging them. Next, instead of our bags being checked through to Seattle they were only checked to Bejing and we got dinged 100 dollars apiece for the bikes. Bejing wasnt much better, thought he english had improved. We spent a whole hour at the ticket counter as Delta had us flying to Vancouver, not seattle , then they couldnt get my passport numbers to work, and then they said we could only check one piece of luggage(though it was 2) and then and then and then! They also dinged us for 150 dollars apiece for the bikes. Supposedly these were partner airlines and the tickets were purchased as one ticket...but no use arguing about it in Bejing. Finally we got on the plane and off to Seattle....America here we come. Digen(goodbye ) China.

Last Days in China

Taking up where Sally stopped in Zhange: Lonely Planet says Marco Polo stayed for a year in Zhange and I'd bet that it probably was nicer when he was there, after the 160 km on the bus it was another big busy city. After the solitude we experienced for most of China we decided that there really was no reason to stay in more cities than necessary and since it was about noon we decided to catch the next bus to points north. Almost as soon as we got off that bus we were on another bus to Jiayuguan, a 4 hr ride on rough roads. A nice local lady got us a room in a cheap hotel and we were not bothered by the "Hotel Police". During the bus ride we discussed various options: continue on or return to North America were the top vote getters. We still wanted to check out the rest of the Hexi Corridor and we were a good 1700 km from Urumqi which was to be our last major stop in China all along. We really wanted to take the train but the "booking office" was no help as far a bikes and told us we needed to go to the train station. So we rode across town to the station only to find long lines, no English spoken, and the lines moving slow. We knew that there was an18 hr. "sleeper bus" ride available to Urumqi but after our "sleeper bus" in Vietnam we were a bit leary. After a night of limited sleep we hit the bus station @ 6:00 and were on the bus shortly after. 18hr later, and actually a pleasant ride: bus was not full, few smokers who did move to the front to smoke, all friendly folks, we pulled in Urumqi about midnight and got a room in a hotel next to the bus stop. During the ride we confirmed to ourselves that we just didn't have it in us emotionally or mentally to continue with Central Asia. The Hexi Corridor was a dark, barren, gravelly desert. We experienced cold winds and the occasional break from the flat expanse by going thru hilly/mountainous terrain. However it would not be a fun place to ride a bike as it is VERY dry and water scarce and often a long distance between small, poor villages. The deserts of the American Southwest have a much more varied terrain and much more vegetation. Up the next morning to find a nicer hotel, with computer in the room, and make plans to leave. Not knowing where we were made it interesting to figure out how to get to the part of town we wanted to be in but we finally got close and a local man, street cleaner actually, showed us this place. Nice place but the keroke bar really kicks in betwen 11 pm& 3am and rocks the whole 6 story concrete building, we are one floor directly above. After many hours thru the day and night trying to find a reasonably priced plane ticket leaving in as few as days as possible we were getting frustrated by getting kicked out of websites, advertised fares no longer there, credit cards not being accepted. Finally I wrote my cousin and asked for her help. She got hold of her ex and he had many of the same problems but after countless emails between us as we both were searching we finally got our ticket home. So we have had several days in Urumqi which is a large city with many different ethnic groups which results in a wonderful change to our diet. Apparently a few years ago there was some rioting by different ethnic groups so it may not be quite as "calm and peaceful" underneath as it appears to us. We have had, again, a wonderful experience with the local people. We have gone to the nearby park on top of a big hill a couple times, rode across town (Chinese people here really have no idea of how to drive compared to other cities) to check out the Urgur Market. Not quite what we expected as it has been rebuilt into a big mall; not the old time market one expects to find in an old silk road trading area. Just another big Chinese shopping center!! Also a ride out to the airport to confirm our flights and find out what was required to check our bikes. We were repeatedly told just show up and pay money, no box required. In an optimistic mood we returned to the hotel. Thinking it was all to simple and since we change air carriers in Bejing to Delta, and being leary that Delta would decide they would not take a bike not boxed up, we decided to get a box at a local bike shop. So today we rode back to the shop and confirmed they will save us a box and we'll pick it up tomorrow on the way to the airport. So, we leave tomorrow night for Bejing. After an 8 hr layover and 11.5 hr flight from Bejing we arrive in Seattle at 5:30AM. We leave at 8:50am on the 1st and arrive at 5:30am on the first so at least we arrive younger than when we left China!!! We'll spend some days in Seattle / Tacoma with good friends and then hit the road for 6-8wks of riding in the Pacific Northwest or even further east, as well as including Vancouver Island. We have had a great trip, met many many wonderful people everywhere we've been. We have seen some beautiful countries, had wonderful experiences and even now we long to return to Central Asia, possibly in the late summer/fall of 2013. I don't know that I can say the trip has been "life changing" but taking a trip by bike, to us, is the best way to explore a country, to experience the people, the culture, the sights and smells. It is a slow way to travel and although we had some tough sections physically the real challenge is in the way you approach each day. Keep an open mind to what you may encounter, don't plan to far ahead, don't research your route too much (although we probably should have done more in a few instances) and enjoy the people; they are what make the trip so memorable.

Land of the Graves

We left the area of Lanzou and headed northward through the "Hexi" corridor. We had planned to take the so called scenic route from our last destination, but it was pretty evident after the first 10km of trucks, more trucks, broken road surface, traffic etc..that Hell "lets take the other road". We now had the choice of 2 other routes(one surely was more scenic as it was closer to the mountains). The other route would take us through the famed "Hexi corridor" and on. He advised of a swedish guy we had met previously we decided on the route straight north out of Lanzou. Well...........there was one particularly nice area that we camped in and our first snow storm. Awoke in the mornign to spectacular mountain views off in the distance and visitations by many sheepherders. From there we climbed up over a Pass and then...the landof desolation. Initially it wasnt to bad but we left the mountains behind and the area became drier and drier. Particulary what was evident were the numerous Muslin grave sites everywhere. Stark landscape with rock piles and sticks marking graves. We have experienced the horrendous wind and sand storms that whip up. We were riding one day into a dark brown dreary sky. In fact we didnt see any kind of horizon that whole day. We continued on and the "feeling" in the air was not pleasant. After experiencing so much smog in China we are often deluded into thinking it was yet another smog bank from some other city. Our common sense somehow kicked in and we realized that "maybe" this wasnt just smog. So after we had downed a beer at the lcoal mercantil store we decided to pitch the tent behind a thousand year old mud wall(maybe two thousand year old). We were not a moment to soon before the trees were swaying and bending and the wind just howled. It felt like doomsday out there. There was very little visibialty and at one point I went for a stroll looking for a lost windblown item. I was just wandering around the graves looking out into nothingness and wondering "why would anyone live here?" Next morning the sun was shining and we were alive! The question arose about continuing on with the trip or taking a break. We rode out into a horrendous headwind riding a whoping great 30km before we decided to bag it and get a room to recoup and regroup. I had decided that the guy who recommended riding this area must have been on crack(no offense) I was under duress. We decide there was no point in riding this section and was at least going to bus it to Zanghe or points further north. Even though we were on a secondary road and there was a perfectly good freeway nearly next to us the majority of traffic used the secondary roads(toll fees to high?? I dunno) and the buses and trucks and cars all drive peddle to the metal and communicate soley with a blaring horn. I was continually lamenting " the road not taken....the road not taken". Sal

What to do?

Gansu Province has been interesting and challenging. More road construction and as you may know a bad crack in my rear wheel (now Sally's rear wheel since that reduces the weight on the wheel), her broken rear rack and two nights ago my rear rack broke. I think my rack is/was 20 yrs old. Got it splinted up with a tent peg and some hose clamps coupled with a piece of rubber rope and it seems to be holding fine. We are about 200 km east of Zhangye, in the Hexi Corridor, in a hotel complete with all the luxuries of life. We've been battling the wind for several days and yesterday was quite nasty so we bailing in here after about 35 km of strong headwinds. Today seems nice but we're sure the wind will pickup again so have decided to take a bus to Zhangye and ponder our next move. The "Corridor" centuries ago was the main route into/out of the "MIddle Kingdom". Today it is a busy highway thru a very arid landscape dotted with poor villages with people scrapingn out a living farming, somehow, this barren, rocky land. Lots of building construction which in China seems to mean lots of big, new empty buildings. Tower cranes everywhere!!! We are just starting to see some hills to the south but nothing different than we have seen for the past at least 2 weeks. Thus we are ready for some different scenery; where that scenery will be is the question we have been asking ourselves. Physically we are doing OK, a bit worn down from the past few months. Mentally we are a bit worse for the wear but hanging in there. We'll probably spend a day in Zhangye and try to catch a train to Urumqi (per original plan). From there where do we go in Central Asia and how do we get there; or do we go to ..... The answer to that question should be divined over the next week. If we show up someplace unexpected don't be surprised. Stay tuned for a few more frequent updates over the next few days.

Onward to Infinity and Beyond

Well we are ready to roll and hopefully not wobble, with one cracked rear rim, one welded rear rack and no police chasing us! Outside the landscape is pretty stark. Something like the area of Big Bend near Hell Paso(El Paso, TX) but redder and bigger. We have no idea what the road will be like but im sure if there is a construction site out there we will find it.

Pleasant memories of the folks we hae met along the way. Always curious and forever helpful. Sometimes to helpful as we have found here in Ganzu province. We make a sincere effort to camp away from towns and villages because we will be overwhelmed with visitors and thermos's!! One place we camped up above the village thought we would have a peacful evening. Well once we were spotted they came to visit bringing us gifts, kinda like the 3 wise men. A thermos of lukewarm water which we gratefully drank then some "greens" then more greens and onions for our meal, and even after we had eaten another lady brought us a bag of cooked greens, some weird looking noodle(looked like an unravelled onion ring) . We would thank them profusedly and hope they would go away, which eventually they did(when it was getting dark). One older lady I took her dry worn hands and massaged them with hand lotion, which she loved. So of course a few more ladies showed up wanted their hands massaged!. I actually enjoyed that part. Just as we were about to turn in Stan (my wise husband) decides to set off his firecrackers that he forgot to light on his birthday. Guess what? More visitors...

Next am we were awoken by the shaking of the tent fly. I peeked out, it was 6:30am an one of evening visitors had brought us 2 thermo's of hot water and her grandson motioned for us to wash! Wash! heck that's not on our agenda at 6:30am. I had them take one thermos back and shooed them away. As we were paking up yet another lady showed up with a thermos. Even though the water in our bottles would be cold once out of the thermos she insisted we used thermos water. Wow what can you say about the hospitality. I doubt if Marco Polo had it this good..dont think they had thermos's then!

Dont talk to me about construction. Somehow I end up having a potty-mouth on a continual basis with every bump we hit. The annoying factor here in China is when doing road construction they don't leave any real rideable or even driveable terrain, also they appear to do the whole 150km or so at one time rather in increments..highly annoying and once again part of asian mentality I don't understand. They continue to be building massive freeways everywhere (or eveywhere we have been) and meanwhile their secondary roads which the majority of the population use are falling apart. Most people here don't own a car so I'm not sure why they eed so many more freways. I guess it looks good?

Unfortunately, we have missed the Tibetan/Buddhist areas of China mostly due to our prior diversion. We would have liked to have seen more and perhaps up ahead we still may. This area has been predominatly Muslim and their mosques we have seen have been quite impressive. The people have been so warm and kind which makes up for some of their shortcomings, ie: garbage is not garbage in their eyes I guess. The garbage factor had increased and it is sad to see the river banks streaming in plastic and trash.

So take the good with the bad. The worst experience so far has been the special task force showing up on your doorstep escorting you away. As in the police just following their rules from their government or whoever decides the rules. The reason it is so upsetting, despite the obvious, is that I wonder if that is how it is here for some unfortunate souls. "They" show up at your doorstep and "You" dissapear!. I have a feeling that is how it is.

Keep us in your happy thoughts and we will stay postive, it is time to depart here and to eventually depart China while the memories are good.

Friday the 13th

Apparently, according to Sally, bad luck hits in combo's of three and today was no exception. After several days of challenging riding thru some beautiful but very arid country, and about 3 weeks ahead of spring arriving, some very cool riding weather, cold mornings, lots of highway construction (what little constructing that was actually going on) which results in very rough rocky roads and constant braking on the long downhills our luck ran out.

First: Sally's rear pannier rack broke. Fortunately we were able to get it fixed by a really nice man in a small welding shop.

Secondly: Shortly thereafter I discovered my rear wheel is cracked about 2" long near the rim. Thus we are stuck here in whatever this town is called. Located about half way between Xining and Lanzhou on highway 109 (with the junction of 309). We're working a a fix/new wheel and hope to continue riding tomorrow. We hope and pray, and ask you to as well, that the wheel lasts for another 300km and then we hope to catch a bus/train to Urumqi.

Thirdly: Needing to find internet to fix item 2 above we finally found a cheap hotel w/ internet. After sending out a few emails regarding the above items, doing a small bit of laundry, a HOT shower we were visited by the police advising that we had a problem. Actually they had a problem with us not staying at an "approved foreigners hotel". We have no way of knowing what is approved and what isn't but were more than happy where we were. Long and short of it is that after an hour of talk we moved to an approved hotel for no more money and includes internet. Actually it's a much nicer place and even has good TV reception with news in English: CCTV (China news agency).

Anyway we've had a great ride thru China enjoying the people most of all, the food second. The environment has been trashed by plastic, trash, garbage, feces, coal, no regulations on road/dam construction pollution, exhaust from all types of vehicles, etc. The agricultural sector has to be the worlds largest user of visqueen (sheets of plastic) that is used to trap moisture in the soil in this arid country. It works but eventually is shredded by either the wind or they rip it up after the crops have a foothold; then the wind blows it all over. Large sheets/strips of plastic line the edges of the fields, the roads and the trees. This ride would really be nice in 2-3 weeks once they have had a bit of rain and the fields start to turn green.

We will continue northwards on backroads from here towards Zhangye on highway 227 or towards Wuwe on a small road just east of 227. Hope to reach Urumqi in two weeks to claim a new wheel and rack, hopefully. We are both feeling a bit the effects of this extended trip but overall doing well physically. The trip has been more emotionally challenging than physical although there has been plenty of that as well. We are looking forward to returning home to Alaska and some unspoiled wilderness.

Dangchang

Taking a rest day here south of Lanzhou byabout 300 km. We'll head out to the NW tomorrow to bypass Lanzhou and try to get thru some Tibetian areas before entering the Naxi Corridor which is much more Muslim. The Muslim influence is quite predominate in this town despite all the liquor stores, pork for sale and no call to worship.

The country here is very arid but also very mountainous with great relief. We actually saw some snow capped peaks in the distance yesterday as the smog finally lifted. The country is something between Afganistan, Pakistan and Rock Springs, WY in term of physical appearance. Lots of compacted mud houses with walls about 16“ thick.

We hope to be in Urumqi by the end of the month to get our kazakhstan visa and then we'll bus to close to the border and ride from there. Should be home by July or early August at the latest. All well and this hotel has the best hot shower we've had on the trip!!!

Wednesday, April 4, 2012, 1:13 AM

Continuing on ...the area here is dry and stark and culturally another world. The amazing thing is there is no smog in this city!!!! We were dreading gettign through it due to smog issues that hang out especially in the valleys. They are using 3 wheeled electric cars here!! wow.. The river is still a dumping ground but for once the air is relatiely clear. We are resting up before we do the last push of our journey here in china. The last leg we rode, once again ended up being yet another new freeway under construction...I now know the inside and outside of one of those monsters. Fortuantley we have left the construction zone behind but im sure we will see it again.

Stan and I both agree that Ganzu wins on the hospitality and friendly department. People have been lovely towards us and we feel blessed. One lady gave us vegetables from her garden/farm antohger family gave us some apples, people want us to stay with them. Their curiosity is overwhelming at times. We stayed across the river from a small town as it was to windy to continue and we recieved visitors continually until everyone finally went to bed. They are all so nice but it is exhausting at times as we are usually tired and just want to "chill" but it comes with the package of travelling.

Tomorrow we continue on to an area called the Hexi corridor it will take us at least 10days to get there ..probably in 3weeks or less we will be in Urumchi and then apply for visas to kazakstan. All is well sunny and cool in the evenings...updates to come

Riding Again Almost

We made it out of Chengdu, somehow. Wanted to go to Guangyuan but the train wouldn't take the bikes because the ride wasn't long enough - if you figure that out let us know. There was a baggage car on the train. So at 7am we left the train station for a ride across the city of 13,000,000 during rush hour. Finally arriving at the bus station after stopping for directions several times, all generally correct as they kept us going in the same direction we were able to catch the 10:00 bus, w/o paying extra for the bikes, to Jainge. Once here we were told to get on another bus which took us 20minutes up the road to where we didn't want to be. Waiting an hour we took the same bus back and are hoteling in one more night before riding again.

Tomorrow we head for Ganzu province on highway 108 and then shortly after onto 212. There do not appear to be any travel restricition but we'll see what cards we are dealt!! It will be good to be on the road again. Don't know when we'll have email access again but will try when we can. We are in a hotel for 100 yen complete with LOTS of hotwater, cigarette stained carpet, large neon sign outside the window, TV w/ english channel!!!, free internet in the room and spider webs over the bathroom door (yes our own private bath!!!). Had a good supper in town - don't get many gringo's here!!

All is well, Stan

Chengdu

We got a bus from LuDing without much hastle thanks to an unexpected meeting with a young man who spoke english and are now in Cengdu. It would not have been a fun ride with the traffic, narrow roads etc.(saved a set of brake pads anyway!) but it was quite the canyoun. Checking on possible atlernate routes in Ganzu province as we work our way to C Asia.

Checked into trains and bus to get north to Guangyuan and can take a train for 5 hrs for about 50 yen so the plan now is to get up early and ride thru this city of 13,000,000 to the north train station and take the earliest train we can north. We checked yesterday with the US and Chinese consulates here in town and no one seemed to know for sure that the area was or was not open. We interpet that as it is open and we'll plan to ride from Guangyuan thru SW Ganzu (a strong Bhuddist area but also supposed to be quite scenic, towards Lanzhou and into the Hexi corridor for a bit before catching a train again to Urumqi. From there we get our visa to start us in Central Asia.

The Hexi Corridor is thru which all the invading armies entered China and the Chinese went west for their conquests. It's just north of the Taklamkian (sp) desert but supposed to be some really interested scenery and mud villages, carvings on the walls and lots of stuff dating back centuries. We'd like to ride NW from Urumqi but not sure what crossings are open to foreigners so most likely we'll have to cross at Korgas.

Chengdu is actually a pretty nice smog choked city, we walked quite a bit yesterday getting road maps for Gonzu and Xiaxing provinces to the north, the US embassy and just around. We thought about leaving today but decided we needed a day to do nothing except email and clean the bikes/panniers. Found an internet cafe but the computer won't recognize my cammera so will try later tonight on a computer from a Swiss couple we met here taking photos all over China of male hairdressers (they all have quite the hairdo's.).

Anyway all is well and we are lookoing forward to continuing on the journey tomorrow.

Chengdu Heading North

We rested up here in the big city ..i was just plain tired after our last few weeks and we had maps to find email to send and route finding, govt inquiries. We dont want to get turned around again. Leave by train NEast of here and then start to ride up to Langzu in Ganzu province along what is called the Hexi corridor towards urumqui where we will get our visa for Kazakstan? or somethign like that..its been a long trip and we are now both anxious to head north. Unfortunateluy stan has not been able to download any pics yet but keep checking the web site incase that chagnes..pictures tell a thousand words.

After I sent the last email I dared to surf the web and found out that in the area we were in and northward the Tibetan cause is spreading and self immolation is going on with young monks and nuns dying for the cause..therefor the govt sealed off all areas around these places and no foreigners including no Tibetans allowed into or out of the areas..Of course Stan and I are there and don't know these things but its all over the web... so its no secret.

We both value our personal freedom and feel blessed to have what we have...we are safe and we are well....

Sadness in Sichuan - March 24th

We had a great ride going north along a backcountry highway filled with friendly helpful people along side the Danba River. It would be quite a float at a bit higher water as the larger rocks would make it hard to move a raft around, a bit too big water for a loaded IK and not many spots to eddy out to camp. Then you have the dams and big lakes to get across that at times are dozens of km long. I guess if you had the logistics with a local outfit for shuttleing around the lakes it could be done an would be a wild ride. Probably could find something on google about the river. There is also an amazing highway construction project underway up the whole valley. At one point we went thru 2 tunnels only about 100 mtr from each other and the total length was 8 km. Dripping wet, we emerged from the darkness of the MTA! Wonderful orange groves, rice paddies and fruit trees. Just a beautiful valley

We finally go to Lu Ding and tried to check into a hotel and kept getting turned down until we hit an "expensive one" at 140 yen per night. Wanting to find something cheaper we left and the police stopped us and finally let us go but they trailed us around town. Finally a diffrent police lady stopped us, thinking she was going to take us to her hotel we followed and finally were informed we couldn't ride north of here as the roads were too dangeous but they wouldn't say why. We finally just left and decided to ride out of town the wrong way and were stopped again, they wanted to see our map. We showed them and they said we could go at least as far as DanBa. So we headed out with a blustery tailwind that accompanied us for the next three days as we went norht and up. Fiinally stopped at police checkpoint we were allowed no further, actually they would letus go another 20 km but then we had no assurance that we could get a ride, or bus, to return us to LuDing. The police finally agreed to give us a ride back to LuDing yesterday an we chcked into the expensive hotel shortly before the heavy rain started. Lots of snow not too much higher on the peaks outside of town.

As sally notes below the people have been great so far but the general atmosphere in this town is not pleasant, although some of the people have been very helpful. It is disappoinment not to be able to ride the route we wanted but afterall this is China!! I'm not going to let one incident give me a negative iimpression of China overall or this area in particular. It's been a great ride so far and I'm sure the rest will be as well.

We'll try for a bus to Chengdu tomorrow and then plan to ride north to Langzhou in Ganzu province before catching the train to Urumqui. If the bus won't take the bike we'll just have to ride it and that should add about 4 days to the trip and reduce any time in Chendu.

Hopefully we'll take the bus nd get pictures sent within a week. Bottom line: all is well and never a dull day!!

Stan


So Stan and I are now the foreigners not welcome in this part of the world..that is to say Northern Sichuan. We got to with in 20km of Danbao north of Luding or ludig and reached an impass .. a police road block. After many hours and govt officials etc an even after showing them our route and map we were told the whole north of Sichuan is off limits to all foreigners for at least 6 months...and its all a secret but "political."

If you had seen what Stan and I went through to get there. A crazy freeway under constrcution alongside the most beauiful raging Danba river(under damming construction)..an outrageous system of underground tunnels, that we had to go through...rockfalls windstorms etc...this particular area has a strong Tibetan influence and we were excited about seeing prayer flags and experiencing the culture of the area.

Needless to say about now I'm not only physically drained I am emotionally drained. I feel sad and ready to get the heck out of here. Since arriving in Luding the atmosphere has changed and we are only allowed to stay at one hotel in town!! We are backin Luding after a kindly police officer was good enough to give us a ride back to a more central location not to mention it has snowed up high. We will either catch a bus to Chengdu (if we can get the bus driver to accept our bikes) or bike it in that direction and then head north.

"Why are we in China?" the question asked to us and can we see your passport asked too many times is more than enough for me to get away from this region. I am grateful for where I live and the feedom to do as I wish...keep good thoughts and prayers coming our way and to those out there whose voices can't be heard.

This email is still not a refelection on how great the general population has been here...

Sally

March 24th

Got tuned back from n. scihuan near Dan Ba by the police due to political issues. Thus we are heading towards Chengdu and then north just further east. Will try to get a blog a bit later. Don't count on photos for awhile. All is well and staying even with the spring weather so far. Sidetracked as you can see. I think we'll catch the bus tomorrow and then we'll take a couple days in Chengdu. Its a bit city of 13,000,000 so we shoud be able to get a good connection there. They are pushing to get some travel city award so are working hard on tourism.

Things are fine here, nothing threatening, just needed to take a detour. Thanks again and hopefully pic within a week.

Stan

Road, What Road

Seems like quite awhile since we left Lijiang on the 9th. Decided to ride to Ninglang and head due east for a shortcut into Scihuan. Well it was shorter if we could have ridden a straight line but numerous mtn passes and switchbacks over the next 5 days made us wonder if we made the right choice. The scenery was fantastic with HUGE mtn valleys, rushing streams and very little in the way of towns or even villages.

From Ninglang one of our maps showed a road over the mtns into Scihuan but 3 others did not. We pulled into town to get fuel for the stove and the man at the gas station wasn't aware of a road, pulled up Google and couldn't find a road! He then pulled up www.soso.com and found there was a road, he even printed out a map and put the names of the villages on the map in English (unfortunately no one was living in the villages as it was too early to farm. Spent the night there due to lateness of the day and to pig out at the local bakery. Next day was a beautiful ride up a really nice road for about 30 km to the pass (gradiants on the Chinese roads are much better than Vietnam!) and down the opposite side for about 15 km. then the pavement stopped and the road turned into a track that appeared, and felt, to have just been blasted and bulldozed for the next 25 km. rocky, dusty with lots of stone retaining wallwork in progress but nothing in the way of a roadbed. Looking at the website we expected to have abou 3 major climbs thus we were carrying foor for 3 days. As it turned out we had the one climb and then it was downhill all the wayto Yan Tang and pavement again after 60 km. We made it in one day and were thrilled by the achievement so we stopped for beer and camped beside a small toxic stream to wash the dust off.

The road again deteriorated after a few km thru a valley sparsely populated and the folks who were there were either unfriendly, as they wouldn't return our greetings, or just dumbstruck by the site of us. About 3 days later we finally rode out of the valley and onto a high windy plain where the people were much fiendlier and really good food in the market: had half a duck for supper for 20 yen or about $3 usd.

Transmission lines and towers all over the mountains since we left Lijiang and more going up all over the place. Obviously very unsightly but I doubt the people care as it's "development" but it seems they run so happazard that there was no planning to minimize the eyesore they cause.

Next day we finally hit Hwy 108 and the main route north in this part of Scihuan (can't ever remember how to spell this province). Lots of freindly people and great snacks in the towns. After 10 km of really nice road the road again turned to crap for 25 km. Flat but under construction, not that we could notice ANY work being done on the road surface. Rocky, dusty, windy, rude drivers: the bigger the vehicle the more right they can claim to the roadway and being the smallest thing on the road you can tell were we ended up. We made it 20km yesterday before stopping for the day and camping along side an irrigation canal, very nice spot actually and quiet. Local farmer actually came by camp this AM and gave us some greens and peas that we have saved for supper.

Back on the road this AM for 3 km and we finally reached the end of the construction, for awhile anyway. After 10km we rode into this small, peaceful, friendly town. Plan was toget some oatmeal and coffee and continue on but it was so quiet and friendly we elected to spend the day and wash 10 days of grime off ourselves and clothes, drink some cheap beer and EAT!! We've now done the laundry, repacked, replaced brake pads, doing email and are resting and getting psyched to hit the road tomorrow.

Our plan is to ride basically north on smaller roads after leaving 108 in another 100 km or so at Shi Mian. Our route, until we elect at the last minute to change it is: Kang Ding to Dan Ba to Ma Er Kang to Tangke to Zoigel to Lanzu where we hope to catch the train to Urumqui. Our visa expires mid May so we hope to be to Urumqui no later than first of May to give us time to get the visa and ride towards Central Asia.

Life has been good so far, we remain healthy, the bikes are running well and no rain since we left Dali. Not counting Vietnam we can count rain days on one hand!!

Thanks for your prayers and we'll try to get some pics to my brother for posting but no promises.

Stan

Wow China

Date: Friday, February 17, 2012, 8:20 PM

well we finally are here and its been an amazing journey so far.  We crossed over the border into China on valentines day, we also saw the big dipper for the first time while camping that evening.  Felt like it was pointing us homeward bound(in a few months).

 

Presently we are in Jihong a major  city in swest Yunnan.  Lonley planet guide states a population of 90k well with all of the constructiona nd massive highrises everywhere more like 10times that ammount.  Taking a rest day here to catch up the head out in a northward bound for Dali which wil take us close to 2weeks.  The weather here is hot but as we head north and to higher elevation it will be cooler.  Noerth of Dali is soem pretty amazing mountainous teraina nd we hope to access some of it as spring arrives.

 

The riding has been great despite the BIG hills.  Very rural here with banana pineapple and rubber tree plantations as well as soem preserved areas of natural forests.  Our worst day was when we took the main hwy to avoid the big hills and ended up ahvign to go through multiple tunnels some up to 4k long which had no lighting in them.  We hasd to ride the raised sidewalk no fun ata ll and pretty stressful so next day went back to the secondar road which ended up taking us up and over a huge pass!! oh well at least it was pretty.

 

Compared to Vietnam we find the chinese quiete , better drivers, but the yougn folks smoke more.  In the city the young men are obsessed with their hairstyle and video games!  In the rural areas they work hard and are very poor.  A huge disparity of wealth it seems no unlike anywhere else.  We ahve found the towns to be very dirty even shocking for us.  Folks are very friendly but I still dont understand the hygeine stuff.

 

We have been able to communicate with much patiende on their part and good humour.  Excpet for the main hwy no signs are in english and everything is in characters.  One learns to look at lot.  I was anxious to get to China and get on with the learnign curve and so far it is not so bad.  The best part is we have been able to camp and have doen so until here and will continue tod o so .  We like to be out of town and cook for ourselves, plus we prefer the rural areas.

 

Anyhow I think the initial culture shock is over and we are settling in more to come later but not for awhile.  Internet is hard to find and relatively expensive.  Next time will be a  blog update with pics.

 

Sal

 

China

We're 4 days into China and things are going quite well.  Our chinese phrases etc are generally working so that has helped.  found a cheap questhouse for $6/night so we are taking a rest day here in Jinghong after 6 days on the road.  We'll leave tomorow for Dali which should take about 7-10 days and 600 km.  It's been fairly mountainous but not terribly steep hills.  We did ride along a major road for quite awhile the second day in and ended up going thru some long, dark (lights didn't work in the tunnel) tunnels - upto 3000mtrs, that was a bit scary riding an elevated sidewalk with holes etc and no safety railing with a 12" drop to the road bed.  Probably 8km of tunnels in all.

 

The countryside is beautiful with LOTS of banana plantations, pineapple fields, rubber trees, corn etc.  Lots of veggies all of which means lots of deforestation.  Some new dam was in the work and lots of power lines, some just transmission poles with no wires strung yet.

 

The small villages are generally dirtier than most we've been thru on our travels with the possible exception of the slums leaving Dehli in India. The roadside food stalls are a far distance from any sort of clean but at least the food is tasty!! Overall the roadsides have been fairly clean with the huge pile of trash every once in a while.  People have been really friendly and helpful.  In one village we met a group of 8 Chinese bike tourists heading for somewhere in Laos a good 3 day ride away.  The youngest was 63 and the oldest 78!!  They all looked very healthy and it was fun to meet each other.  One spoke fairly good English.

 

The food and beer is cheap, this internet place is VERY expensive so hopefully we'll find something cheaper later on.  Hope to ride quite a distance north but right now it's fairly cold up there but hopefully spring will arrive by the timewe do.  If not we'll just head east a bit sooner towards Chengdu. Don't want to double back south.

 

Camping has been a real treat especially when we find a rubber tree farm as there are lots of flat spaces, few ants, solitude and generally nice views.  The days have been warming up quite a bit so we've been trying to hit the road before 8 but not much luck yet as it's hard to get up and going in the dark at 6am.  On the other side it's nice and light till about 7:30.

 

Dont know if you, Larry & Tom, have been getting these so have copied you.  Hope to get you on the address list soon.  All the plants and birds around here you'd love it Tom.

 

Time to sign off and complete our errands for the day:  main chore is a new headlamp or two.  Our BD Spots just keep cutting out so it's time for cheap Chinese ones that probably won't last either.

 

Love,  Stan