Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Riding Again Almost

We made it out of Chengdu, somehow. Wanted to go to Guangyuan but the train wouldn't take the bikes because the ride wasn't long enough - if you figure that out let us know. There was a baggage car on the train. So at 7am we left the train station for a ride across the city of 13,000,000 during rush hour. Finally arriving at the bus station after stopping for directions several times, all generally correct as they kept us going in the same direction we were able to catch the 10:00 bus, w/o paying extra for the bikes, to Jainge. Once here we were told to get on another bus which took us 20minutes up the road to where we didn't want to be. Waiting an hour we took the same bus back and are hoteling in one more night before riding again.

Tomorrow we head for Ganzu province on highway 108 and then shortly after onto 212. There do not appear to be any travel restricition but we'll see what cards we are dealt!! It will be good to be on the road again. Don't know when we'll have email access again but will try when we can. We are in a hotel for 100 yen complete with LOTS of hotwater, cigarette stained carpet, large neon sign outside the window, TV w/ english channel!!!, free internet in the room and spider webs over the bathroom door (yes our own private bath!!!). Had a good supper in town - don't get many gringo's here!!

All is well, Stan

Chengdu

We got a bus from LuDing without much hastle thanks to an unexpected meeting with a young man who spoke english and are now in Cengdu. It would not have been a fun ride with the traffic, narrow roads etc.(saved a set of brake pads anyway!) but it was quite the canyoun. Checking on possible atlernate routes in Ganzu province as we work our way to C Asia.

Checked into trains and bus to get north to Guangyuan and can take a train for 5 hrs for about 50 yen so the plan now is to get up early and ride thru this city of 13,000,000 to the north train station and take the earliest train we can north. We checked yesterday with the US and Chinese consulates here in town and no one seemed to know for sure that the area was or was not open. We interpet that as it is open and we'll plan to ride from Guangyuan thru SW Ganzu (a strong Bhuddist area but also supposed to be quite scenic, towards Lanzhou and into the Hexi corridor for a bit before catching a train again to Urumqi. From there we get our visa to start us in Central Asia.

The Hexi Corridor is thru which all the invading armies entered China and the Chinese went west for their conquests. It's just north of the Taklamkian (sp) desert but supposed to be some really interested scenery and mud villages, carvings on the walls and lots of stuff dating back centuries. We'd like to ride NW from Urumqi but not sure what crossings are open to foreigners so most likely we'll have to cross at Korgas.

Chengdu is actually a pretty nice smog choked city, we walked quite a bit yesterday getting road maps for Gonzu and Xiaxing provinces to the north, the US embassy and just around. We thought about leaving today but decided we needed a day to do nothing except email and clean the bikes/panniers. Found an internet cafe but the computer won't recognize my cammera so will try later tonight on a computer from a Swiss couple we met here taking photos all over China of male hairdressers (they all have quite the hairdo's.).

Anyway all is well and we are lookoing forward to continuing on the journey tomorrow.

Chengdu Heading North

We rested up here in the big city ..i was just plain tired after our last few weeks and we had maps to find email to send and route finding, govt inquiries. We dont want to get turned around again. Leave by train NEast of here and then start to ride up to Langzu in Ganzu province along what is called the Hexi corridor towards urumqui where we will get our visa for Kazakstan? or somethign like that..its been a long trip and we are now both anxious to head north. Unfortunateluy stan has not been able to download any pics yet but keep checking the web site incase that chagnes..pictures tell a thousand words.

After I sent the last email I dared to surf the web and found out that in the area we were in and northward the Tibetan cause is spreading and self immolation is going on with young monks and nuns dying for the cause..therefor the govt sealed off all areas around these places and no foreigners including no Tibetans allowed into or out of the areas..Of course Stan and I are there and don't know these things but its all over the web... so its no secret.

We both value our personal freedom and feel blessed to have what we have...we are safe and we are well....

Sadness in Sichuan - March 24th

We had a great ride going north along a backcountry highway filled with friendly helpful people along side the Danba River. It would be quite a float at a bit higher water as the larger rocks would make it hard to move a raft around, a bit too big water for a loaded IK and not many spots to eddy out to camp. Then you have the dams and big lakes to get across that at times are dozens of km long. I guess if you had the logistics with a local outfit for shuttleing around the lakes it could be done an would be a wild ride. Probably could find something on google about the river. There is also an amazing highway construction project underway up the whole valley. At one point we went thru 2 tunnels only about 100 mtr from each other and the total length was 8 km. Dripping wet, we emerged from the darkness of the MTA! Wonderful orange groves, rice paddies and fruit trees. Just a beautiful valley

We finally go to Lu Ding and tried to check into a hotel and kept getting turned down until we hit an "expensive one" at 140 yen per night. Wanting to find something cheaper we left and the police stopped us and finally let us go but they trailed us around town. Finally a diffrent police lady stopped us, thinking she was going to take us to her hotel we followed and finally were informed we couldn't ride north of here as the roads were too dangeous but they wouldn't say why. We finally just left and decided to ride out of town the wrong way and were stopped again, they wanted to see our map. We showed them and they said we could go at least as far as DanBa. So we headed out with a blustery tailwind that accompanied us for the next three days as we went norht and up. Fiinally stopped at police checkpoint we were allowed no further, actually they would letus go another 20 km but then we had no assurance that we could get a ride, or bus, to return us to LuDing. The police finally agreed to give us a ride back to LuDing yesterday an we chcked into the expensive hotel shortly before the heavy rain started. Lots of snow not too much higher on the peaks outside of town.

As sally notes below the people have been great so far but the general atmosphere in this town is not pleasant, although some of the people have been very helpful. It is disappoinment not to be able to ride the route we wanted but afterall this is China!! I'm not going to let one incident give me a negative iimpression of China overall or this area in particular. It's been a great ride so far and I'm sure the rest will be as well.

We'll try for a bus to Chengdu tomorrow and then plan to ride north to Langzhou in Ganzu province before catching the train to Urumqui. If the bus won't take the bike we'll just have to ride it and that should add about 4 days to the trip and reduce any time in Chendu.

Hopefully we'll take the bus nd get pictures sent within a week. Bottom line: all is well and never a dull day!!

Stan


So Stan and I are now the foreigners not welcome in this part of the world..that is to say Northern Sichuan. We got to with in 20km of Danbao north of Luding or ludig and reached an impass .. a police road block. After many hours and govt officials etc an even after showing them our route and map we were told the whole north of Sichuan is off limits to all foreigners for at least 6 months...and its all a secret but "political."

If you had seen what Stan and I went through to get there. A crazy freeway under constrcution alongside the most beauiful raging Danba river(under damming construction)..an outrageous system of underground tunnels, that we had to go through...rockfalls windstorms etc...this particular area has a strong Tibetan influence and we were excited about seeing prayer flags and experiencing the culture of the area.

Needless to say about now I'm not only physically drained I am emotionally drained. I feel sad and ready to get the heck out of here. Since arriving in Luding the atmosphere has changed and we are only allowed to stay at one hotel in town!! We are backin Luding after a kindly police officer was good enough to give us a ride back to a more central location not to mention it has snowed up high. We will either catch a bus to Chengdu (if we can get the bus driver to accept our bikes) or bike it in that direction and then head north.

"Why are we in China?" the question asked to us and can we see your passport asked too many times is more than enough for me to get away from this region. I am grateful for where I live and the feedom to do as I wish...keep good thoughts and prayers coming our way and to those out there whose voices can't be heard.

This email is still not a refelection on how great the general population has been here...

Sally

Monday, March 26, 2012

March 24th

Got tuned back from n. scihuan near Dan Ba by the police due to political issues. Thus we are heading towards Chengdu and then north just further east. Will try to get a blog a bit later. Don't count on photos for awhile. All is well and staying even with the spring weather so far. Sidetracked as you can see. I think we'll catch the bus tomorrow and then we'll take a couple days in Chengdu. Its a bit city of 13,000,000 so we shoud be able to get a good connection there. They are pushing to get some travel city award so are working hard on tourism.

Things are fine here, nothing threatening, just needed to take a detour. Thanks again and hopefully pic within a week.

Stan

Monday, March 19, 2012

Road, What Road

Seems like quite awhile since we left Lijiang on the 9th. Decided to ride to Ninglang and head due east for a shortcut into Scihuan. Well it was shorter if we could have ridden a straight line but numerous mtn passes and switchbacks over the next 5 days made us wonder if we made the right choice. The scenery was fantastic with HUGE mtn valleys, rushing streams and very little in the way of towns or even villages.

From Ninglang one of our maps showed a road over the mtns into Scihuan but 3 others did not. We pulled into town to get fuel for the stove and the man at the gas station wasn't aware of a road, pulled up Google and couldn't find a road! He then pulled up www.soso.com and found there was a road, he even printed out a map and put the names of the villages on the map in English (unfortunately no one was living in the villages as it was too early to farm. Spent the night there due to lateness of the day and to pig out at the local bakery. Next day was a beautiful ride up a really nice road for about 30 km to the pass (gradiants on the Chinese roads are much better than Vietnam!) and down the opposite side for about 15 km. then the pavement stopped and the road turned into a track that appeared, and felt, to have just been blasted and bulldozed for the next 25 km. rocky, dusty with lots of stone retaining wallwork in progress but nothing in the way of a roadbed. Looking at the website we expected to have abou 3 major climbs thus we were carrying foor for 3 days. As it turned out we had the one climb and then it was downhill all the wayto Yan Tang and pavement again after 60 km. We made it in one day and were thrilled by the achievement so we stopped for beer and camped beside a small toxic stream to wash the dust off.

The road again deteriorated after a few km thru a valley sparsely populated and the folks who were there were either unfriendly, as they wouldn't return our greetings, or just dumbstruck by the site of us. About 3 days later we finally rode out of the valley and onto a high windy plain where the people were much fiendlier and really good food in the market: had half a duck for supper for 20 yen or about $3 usd.

Transmission lines and towers all over the mountains since we left Lijiang and more going up all over the place. Obviously very unsightly but I doubt the people care as it's "development" but it seems they run so happazard that there was no planning to minimize the eyesore they cause.

Next day we finally hit Hwy 108 and the main route north in this part of Scihuan (can't ever remember how to spell this province). Lots of freindly people and great snacks in the towns. After 10 km of really nice road the road again turned to crap for 25 km. Flat but under construction, not that we could notice ANY work being done on the road surface. Rocky, dusty, windy, rude drivers: the bigger the vehicle the more right they can claim to the roadway and being the smallest thing on the road you can tell were we ended up. We made it 20km yesterday before stopping for the day and camping along side an irrigation canal, very nice spot actually and quiet. Local farmer actually came by camp this AM and gave us some greens and peas that we have saved for supper.

Back on the road this AM for 3 km and we finally reached the end of the construction, for awhile anyway. After 10km we rode into this small, peaceful, friendly town. Plan was toget some oatmeal and coffee and continue on but it was so quiet and friendly we elected to spend the day and wash 10 days of grime off ourselves and clothes, drink some cheap beer and EAT!! We've now done the laundry, repacked, replaced brake pads, doing email and are resting and getting psyched to hit the road tomorrow.

Our plan is to ride basically north on smaller roads after leaving 108 in another 100 km or so at Shi Mian. Our route, until we elect at the last minute to change it is: Kang Ding to Dan Ba to Ma Er Kang to Tangke to Zoigel to Lanzu where we hope to catch the train to Urumqui. Our visa expires mid May so we hope to be to Urumqui no later than first of May to give us time to get the visa and ride towards Central Asia.

Life has been good so far, we remain healthy, the bikes are running well and no rain since we left Dali. Not counting Vietnam we can count rain days on one hand!!

Thanks for your prayers and we'll try to get some pics to my brother for posting but no promises.

Stan

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Wow China

Date: Friday, February 17, 2012, 8:20 PM


well we finally are here and its been an amazing journey so far.  We crossed over the border into China on valentines day, we also saw the big dipper for the first time while camping that evening.  Felt like it was pointing us homeward bound(in a few months).
 
Presently we are in Jihong a major  city in swest Yunnan.  Lonley planet guide states a population of 90k well with all of the constructiona nd massive highrises everywhere more like 10times that ammount.  Taking a rest day here to catch up the head out in a northward bound for Dali which wil take us close to 2weeks.  The weather here is hot but as we head north and to higher elevation it will be cooler.  Noerth of Dali is soem pretty amazing mountainous teraina nd we hope to access some of it as spring arrives.
 
The riding has been great despite the BIG hills.  Very rural here with banana pineapple and rubber tree plantations as well as soem preserved areas of natural forests.  Our worst day was when we took the main hwy to avoid the big hills and ended up ahvign to go through multiple tunnels some up to 4k long which had no lighting in them.  We hasd to ride the raised sidewalk no fun ata ll and pretty stressful so next day went back to the secondar road which ended up taking us up and over a huge pass!! oh well at least it was pretty.
 
Compared to Vietnam we find the chinese quiete , better drivers, but the yougn folks smoke more.  In the city the young men are obsessed with their hairstyle and video games!  In the rural areas they work hard and are very poor.  A huge disparity of wealth it seems no unlike anywhere else.  We ahve found the towns to be very dirty even shocking for us.  Folks are very friendly but I still dont understand the hygeine stuff.
 
We have been able to communicate with much patiende on their part and good humour.  Excpet for the main hwy no signs are in english and everything is in characters.  One learns to look at lot.  I was anxious to get to China and get on with the learnign curve and so far it is not so bad.  The best part is we have been able to camp and have doen so until here and will continue tod o so .  We like to be out of town and cook for ourselves, plus we prefer the rural areas.
 
Anyhow I think the initial culture shock is over and we are settling in more to come later but not for awhile.  Internet is hard to find and relatively expensive.  Next time will be a  blog update with pics.
 
Sal
 

China

We're 4 days into China and things are going quite well.  Our chinese phrases etc are generally working so that has helped.  found a cheap questhouse for $6/night so we are taking a rest day here in Jinghong after 6 days on the road.  We'll leave tomorow for Dali which should take about 7-10 days and 600 km.  It's been fairly mountainous but not terribly steep hills.  We did ride along a major road for quite awhile the second day in and ended up going thru some long, dark (lights didn't work in the tunnel) tunnels - upto 3000mtrs, that was a bit scary riding an elevated sidewalk with holes etc and no safety railing with a 12" drop to the road bed.  Probably 8km of tunnels in all.
 
The countryside is beautiful with LOTS of banana plantations, pineapple fields, rubber trees, corn etc.  Lots of veggies all of which means lots of deforestation.  Some new dam was in the work and lots of power lines, some just transmission poles with no wires strung yet.
 
The small villages are generally dirtier than most we've been thru on our travels with the possible exception of the slums leaving Dehli in India. The roadside food stalls are a far distance from any sort of clean but at least the food is tasty!! Overall the roadsides have been fairly clean with the huge pile of trash every once in a while.  People have been really friendly and helpful.  In one village we met a group of 8 Chinese bike tourists heading for somewhere in Laos a good 3 day ride away.  The youngest was 63 and the oldest 78!!  They all looked very healthy and it was fun to meet each other.  One spoke fairly good English.
 
The food and beer is cheap, this internet place is VERY expensive so hopefully we'll find something cheaper later on.  Hope to ride quite a distance north but right now it's fairly cold up there but hopefully spring will arrive by the timewe do.  If not we'll just head east a bit sooner towards Chengdu. Don't want to double back south.
 
Camping has been a real treat especially when we find a rubber tree farm as there are lots of flat spaces, few ants, solitude and generally nice views.  The days have been warming up quite a bit so we've been trying to hit the road before 8 but not much luck yet as it's hard to get up and going in the dark at 6am.  On the other side it's nice and light till about 7:30.
 
Dont know if you, Larry & Tom, have been getting these so have copied you.  Hope to get you on the address list soon.  All the plants and birds around here you'd love it Tom.
 
Time to sign off and complete our errands for the day:  main chore is a new headlamp or two.  Our BD Spots just keep cutting out so it's time for cheap Chinese ones that probably won't last either.
 
Love,  Stan

Yunnan province, China

Well we are pretty well settled here in Swest china heading northward.  Weve had a splendid trip to date with perfect weather until we got to Dali(central Yunnan). Apparently its been sunny and dry here for past 3months until we showed up in  a hurricane wind followed by cold rains and snow on the mountain tops. Dali is at around 6000ft and its blanketed on one side by a massive range of peaks and a lake on the other.
 
We have camped all the way through until reaching here and the weather as said before spectacular sunnny warming temps throughout the day with cool evenings , perfect riding weather.  Yunnan is a very rural area and spectacular.  Just about everythign has been grown here and we are never tired of seeing what agricultural product we come upon  next.  Weve camped neaxt to pristing looking rivers and not so pristine.  Plastic is the main culprit and the bags are everywhere!  Garbage continues to be an issue wherever we go.
 
People here have been so friendly and very curious without beign overbearing.  We have been the centre of attraction wherever we go as msot tourists are nto travelling as slow as we are and are not stopping at these small places along the way.  It is very much  like being on candid camera most folks just cant believe their eyes.  
 
Our gear is holding up so so with one broken tent pole which we have fixed with  plastic tubing bamboo and electrical tape(the poels never break when you are at home!!) and we cant very well go back to REI and get a new one!  The stove plunger which pressurizes the fuel bottle has been fixed?/sealed  with the aid of a bicycle patch.  Our pocket translator which has been soooooooooo helpful has a mind of its own and sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt.  The good news is that Stan and i are healthy although he did have what appeared to be a kidney stone attack and fortuantley it was a one time occurence. I did medicate him with all kinds of good drugs (most Over the counter from vietnam) but didnt help much . Oh yea stan informed me that the teeth on my back sprocket of my bike are wearing and dont know why but ...
 
I guess there are a lot of stories but most have just floated by in endless days of sunshine and riding. Of interest we did get to cycle through the highlands of the tea growing area and that looked like soemthign out of a story book.  We ahvent seen antoher tourist/white non-asian person until we got here to Dali and even then very few mostly chinese tourists.
 
We leave in the am northward and hope the rain will go away wont travel much higher in elevation as it si still a little early in the season .Keep us in your thoughts and prayers.  I only hope that before we leave I can find an englsh channel on the telly with an english song.  The last one I saw was the bodyguard, probably put on as Whitney H had died  the day before.  I had the song from the bodyguard "I will always love you" going around in my head for 2weeks!!
 
Sal

Litiang

We are in Litang and getting ready to leave tomorrow heading a bit north and mainly east to Schiuan (sp).  Looks like we'll be in remote country for quite a bit so don't know when we'll write again.  All is going well and spring is in the air.
 
Decided to skip Tiger Leaping Gorge due to elevation, snow and road route.  Thought about Lulu Lake but same issues and it looks like we'll have a long ride in Schiuan going almost all the way north to south and into Gansu before catching a train to Urumqui.  All time permitting of course.
 
Weather still holding after Dali but cloudy and cool.  Met a group of Chinese bike tourists in Dali as we were leaving and we had a good visit in broken English/Chinese.  Bikers arethe same everywhere.
 
Stan

Sally's note from Lijiang

Date: Thursday, March 8, 2012, 3:58 AM


hey there will be out of touch for awhile, as already mentioned email is ahrd to come by in china have to ahve a special card or find expensive coffee shope in tourist sites..
 
the ride here was great spectaculat views again and despite the higher elevation warmer than Dali.  Legian is a unesco world heritage site and a remarkable old city inisde the new city.   Very colourful here with many different hill tribe folks in different costumes.  The old city is a maze of twisty alleys cobblestone roads and stan and I jsut get lsot in the old city and frustrated .  soem signs in english  but mostly chineses and usually we are trying to find things like bookshops with maps in english and chinese(dream on!!)
 
we would liek to go to leaping tiger gorge but its higher elevation and cold etc and wehave a long road ahead of us..we can see some big peaks snow covered in places and that is exciting but not preffered biking.  We are loaded up with food and warm clothes and ready to roll in the am.
 
havent seen any westerners so at tiems we do truly feel liek that we are out here on our won but its a good feeling.  keep us in your thoughts and prayers so far we arestill in good healtha nd good spirits ..
 
let the adventure continue..
 
sal